As you may know, I moved to Bordeaux last September, and while I moved here to get my Masters, I really moved here for the food (and the wine). I’ve spent much of my time here exploring the different neighborhoods, basically eating and drinking my way through the city. My parents came to visit for a few days in July, and we tried a number of my favorites and even some places I hadn’t been!
I’ve put together an itinerary of my favorite things to do in the city, but really, you can’t go wrong here.
Friday
The best way to start your weekend in Bordeaux is to enjoy a café au lait in front of the Cathédrale Saint-André (Place Pay Berland). The sun shines on the square, and you can enjoy looking at the cathedral while sipping your drink. After enjoying the sun, you can wander up the Rue des Remparts and pop into shops along the way. Be sure to check out Artiga (73 rue des Trois-Conils) for Basque style linens and Oliviers & Co (29 rue des Remparts) for olive oil and other food products.
For a fish dinner, check out Hook’s (45 rue du Loup); there’s limited seating, but the menu has a little bit of everything when it comes to fish. Order the fish tacos, and the chef may even ask you how you’d like them prepared. For an after dinner drink and nibble, go to Vin Urbains (27 rue des Bahutiers); they have a great wine list and the best truffle croque monsieur if you’re still hungry.
Saturday
Saturday mornings are made for eating croissants and sipping coffees. Most cafes around the city will offer this type of breakfast, where you can sit outside and enjoy the weather (if it’s not raining as it’s been doing non-stop recently).
If you prefer to go directly to the source[read: the boulangerie], I recommend swinging by Maison Hermelin (18 rue Edmond Costedoat) or La Fabrique Pains et Bricoles (47 rue du Pas-Saint-Georges). After breakfast, I suggest wandering through Le Jardin Publique (Cours de Verdun). From there, you can walk to the Chartrons neighborhood for some antique shopping.
Au Bistrot (38 place des Capucins) takes traditional French bistro food to the next level. With a cozy interior, you’re bound to enjoy your meal. If the weather is agreeable, you can even sit outside and watch the city pass you by. After lunch, swing by La Maison du Glacier (1 Place Saint-Pierre) for an ice cream cone; I recommend the yuzu, lemon basil, café, or speculoos. In a cone, of course. Since you’ll be in the old part of the city, be sure to walk by the Porte Caihau (Place du Palais) and La Grosse Cloche (45 rue Saint-James).
Head to L’Originel (35 rue du Loup) for a delicious and intimate dinner. With only 10 tables, you’re sure to have a quiet dinner, while enjoying the ever-changing menu. After dinner, head to Aux Quatres Coins du Vin (8 rue de la Devise) for a glass of wine. In addition to their wine by the bottle list, they have enomatic wine dispensers, so you can get pours from 3cl to 12cl, giving you the opportunity to try many different wines.
Sunday
Sunday mornings are for meandering through marchés. There are three that I recommend exploring. The earlier you go to the Marché des Capucins (Place des Capucins), the better - as it gets very busy. This is an indoor/outdoor market, with various food vendors inside and other vendors outside. There are also restaurants inside - if you’re craving moules frites and a glass of crisp white wine, this is a great place to come back to for lunch, but it closes at 1pm.
From there, you can walk to the Les Puces de Saint-Michel (Place Saint-Michel), a weekly flea market; along your walk, pop into the rug shops that have a Middle Eastern influence. At the marché, you will find a variety of vendors; some selling antiques, and some selling things you probably don’t need. The square is surrounded by other antique shops - be sure to check out Les Hangars St. Michel (20-22 rue des Allamandiers). If you feel famished from all your shopping, swing by La Boulangerie (51 rue des Faures). They have some of the best baguettes and croissants in town. You can grab the B Tram from the Porte de Bourgogne to Chartrons, where the Marché des Quais (Quai des Chartrons) runs along the river. This marché is the typical food and produce market that you picture when you think of France. This is where I get most of my produce, a few cheeses, fresh bread, and a roasted chicken, almost weekly.
The concept of brunch has made its way to Bordeaux, and a number of restaurants offer it on Sundays. Horace (40 rue Poquelin Molière) serves one plate per Sunday alongside a number of pastries, coffee beverages, and teas. The Breakfast Club (27 rue des Ayres) and Cafe Kokomo (14 rue Ravez) are also good brunch spots, but be prepared to wait for a table. In the afternoon, you can make your way to Cité du Vin (134 Quai de Bacalan); the B Tram will take you right there. The New York Times recently posted this article about visiting the museum. Be sure to have a glass of wine at museum’s cafe; there’s an amazing view of the city and the river (if it’s a clear day). Be sure to stroll through the Place de la Bourse.
If you’re looking for the quintessential steak frites for dinner, line up at L’Entrêcote (4 Cours du 30 Juillet). They open at 7 and unfortunately don’t take reservations. But it’s all-you-can-eat steak frites, so really, how can you go wrong?
I hope you enjoyed this itinerary. The city is very walkable. I often ride my bike or use public transport, which is quite user-friendly. Have a wonderful time in Bordeaux. Au revoir!
Addresses
Horace(40 rue Poquelin Molière)
Artiga(73 rue des Trois-Conils)
Badie(60 - 62 Allée de Tourny)
Cantik(68 Rue du Pas-Saint-Georges)
Airbnb also has some great options.
